Crossing Australia 2011 Perth to Adelaide
SHORT RESUME OF THE CROSSING
My main challenge was to cross the Nullarbor Desert in Australia - on an unsupported bike ride. The route took me from Perth WA to Adalaide SA.
Some facts and figures Total distance 2929 km or 2092 miles riding between 75 and 105 k each day which was between 5 and 7 hours in the saddle. No punctures, two pair of shorts and the bike easily stood up to all the rough treatment it got. My only health problem was to get a boil on my butt, right where I sat, had to ride for 4 days before I could get medical treatment, oh and was still sore for a good while after. But good old Lance Armstrong’s phrase “pain is temporary – giving up is permanent” or something like that kept me going.
Crossing the Nullarbor is one of those iconic journeys that all travellers want to do, especially by bike. Well, me anyhow. I have to say I really enjoyed it and here are some of the highlights and lows.After leaving Perth I followed the Rail Heritage Trail for about 70k before joining the Great Eastern Hwy all the way into Coolgardie. This was where I reached 52kph after being blown along by a massive storm that brought down trees and ripped off roofs. Luckily the wind was directly behind me.South to Noresman which is the start of the crossing, from then on there is very little except a series of Roadhouses which, surprisingly, had very good food and always a camp site. Water was always going to be an issue, however, I was always able to get rainwater from the tanks or bottled at $6 a litre. But I knew things were expensive as it all has to be shipped in or the water has to be desalinated. The most water I carried was 10 litres at any one time. In between Roadhouses it was sleeping in the bush and these were the times I liked the best. So quiet and the sky just so big and clear.You got used to the massive Road trains zipping past but they didn’t cause too many problems, I just had to be aware and if necessary get off the road.
Poisonous Spiders and Snakes etc – as we know Australia has more venomous critters than anywhere in the world, didn’t see any! However, loved watching the kangaroos and emus – even had some ‘roos visit me after spending a night in gaol. Yes again. However, I would have liked to have given the flies a miss especially the March flies like small versions of horse flies. They came hunting in packs of around 50, always when I was struggling up some hill and too slow to escape them.The birds were the highlight of the trip with the little Willy Wagtails my favourite they are so plucky and I watched them chasing the crows, magpies and even a wedge tail eagle away from their nests. Not only that, one chased me as I was riding down the road – kept swooping down at me. Which made a change from the magpies doing that – now they are scary.What surprised me most was the ever changing flora and I was fortunate to be there when all the spring wild flowers were out. I found the scenery wonderful – never boring as many would have you believe.
People you meet –this is always a highlight when travelling, from the guy walking across Oz dressed as a Storm Trooper to all the many Grey Nomads who slowed down to check I had enough water and was OK, thanks guys. What is it they say about 6 degrees of separation? Met a coupleon holiday in Streaky Bay, Louise and Dave, only to find out that Louise not only came from the same town as me in England, but her family knew mine through the same church and her Aunty was a friend of my Mums. Spent a great time in Adelaide with them and her Dad and Mum talking about old Grimsby. And, the family of 3, Victor, his daughter Julie and her delightful 12 yo daughter Anne,(who thought my boil on the butt hilarious-huh) cycling across Oz. I had followed them on the internet in ‘08 when they rode across USA and I was researching my trip there. Hadn’t been in touch or knew they were in Oz, really enjoyed my time with them. In Iron Knob, where the first iron ore was mined, now largely abandoned and it seems most of the place, including the pub, is owned by the Rebels, a notorious biker gang. As for the pub it was almost like the one in the song, no food, no room, no water but could manage some beer. Phew. Camped that night with a couple, Jon and Christiana who were just setting out on their first big tour good luck guys.
Cranky things along the way – I wonder why it is that these isolated places bring out the eccentricities of people, like a tree with loads of bras hanging from it, 4 garden gnomes’ miles from anywhere, a tribute to Cadel Evans using a rusty old bike and a yellow tee shirt. A van made out of corrugated iron that looked like it was straight out a Mad Max film. Sorry but I have to include you Victor in here with your, shall we say, interesting bikes. The couple who run a disused gaol as a museum and cafe. They let me stay in one of the cells overnight, locked the main gates and left me the run of the entire gaol to myself. Took a slight detour down the Eyre Peninsular for a few days by the sea and then rejoined the Eyre Hwy to finish the crossing at Port Augusta. Felt somewhat sad as it had been such an enjoyable and interesting ride.The final part took me into the wine growing Clare Valley and of course had to stop and sample the wines along the trail.
Finally into Adelaide and what a shock to again be in busy traffic.
My main challenge was to cross the Nullarbor Desert in Australia - on an unsupported bike ride. The route took me from Perth WA to Adalaide SA.
Some facts and figures Total distance 2929 km or 2092 miles riding between 75 and 105 k each day which was between 5 and 7 hours in the saddle. No punctures, two pair of shorts and the bike easily stood up to all the rough treatment it got. My only health problem was to get a boil on my butt, right where I sat, had to ride for 4 days before I could get medical treatment, oh and was still sore for a good while after. But good old Lance Armstrong’s phrase “pain is temporary – giving up is permanent” or something like that kept me going.
Crossing the Nullarbor is one of those iconic journeys that all travellers want to do, especially by bike. Well, me anyhow. I have to say I really enjoyed it and here are some of the highlights and lows.After leaving Perth I followed the Rail Heritage Trail for about 70k before joining the Great Eastern Hwy all the way into Coolgardie. This was where I reached 52kph after being blown along by a massive storm that brought down trees and ripped off roofs. Luckily the wind was directly behind me.South to Noresman which is the start of the crossing, from then on there is very little except a series of Roadhouses which, surprisingly, had very good food and always a camp site. Water was always going to be an issue, however, I was always able to get rainwater from the tanks or bottled at $6 a litre. But I knew things were expensive as it all has to be shipped in or the water has to be desalinated. The most water I carried was 10 litres at any one time. In between Roadhouses it was sleeping in the bush and these were the times I liked the best. So quiet and the sky just so big and clear.You got used to the massive Road trains zipping past but they didn’t cause too many problems, I just had to be aware and if necessary get off the road.
Poisonous Spiders and Snakes etc – as we know Australia has more venomous critters than anywhere in the world, didn’t see any! However, loved watching the kangaroos and emus – even had some ‘roos visit me after spending a night in gaol. Yes again. However, I would have liked to have given the flies a miss especially the March flies like small versions of horse flies. They came hunting in packs of around 50, always when I was struggling up some hill and too slow to escape them.The birds were the highlight of the trip with the little Willy Wagtails my favourite they are so plucky and I watched them chasing the crows, magpies and even a wedge tail eagle away from their nests. Not only that, one chased me as I was riding down the road – kept swooping down at me. Which made a change from the magpies doing that – now they are scary.What surprised me most was the ever changing flora and I was fortunate to be there when all the spring wild flowers were out. I found the scenery wonderful – never boring as many would have you believe.
People you meet –this is always a highlight when travelling, from the guy walking across Oz dressed as a Storm Trooper to all the many Grey Nomads who slowed down to check I had enough water and was OK, thanks guys. What is it they say about 6 degrees of separation? Met a coupleon holiday in Streaky Bay, Louise and Dave, only to find out that Louise not only came from the same town as me in England, but her family knew mine through the same church and her Aunty was a friend of my Mums. Spent a great time in Adelaide with them and her Dad and Mum talking about old Grimsby. And, the family of 3, Victor, his daughter Julie and her delightful 12 yo daughter Anne,(who thought my boil on the butt hilarious-huh) cycling across Oz. I had followed them on the internet in ‘08 when they rode across USA and I was researching my trip there. Hadn’t been in touch or knew they were in Oz, really enjoyed my time with them. In Iron Knob, where the first iron ore was mined, now largely abandoned and it seems most of the place, including the pub, is owned by the Rebels, a notorious biker gang. As for the pub it was almost like the one in the song, no food, no room, no water but could manage some beer. Phew. Camped that night with a couple, Jon and Christiana who were just setting out on their first big tour good luck guys.
Cranky things along the way – I wonder why it is that these isolated places bring out the eccentricities of people, like a tree with loads of bras hanging from it, 4 garden gnomes’ miles from anywhere, a tribute to Cadel Evans using a rusty old bike and a yellow tee shirt. A van made out of corrugated iron that looked like it was straight out a Mad Max film. Sorry but I have to include you Victor in here with your, shall we say, interesting bikes. The couple who run a disused gaol as a museum and cafe. They let me stay in one of the cells overnight, locked the main gates and left me the run of the entire gaol to myself. Took a slight detour down the Eyre Peninsular for a few days by the sea and then rejoined the Eyre Hwy to finish the crossing at Port Augusta. Felt somewhat sad as it had been such an enjoyable and interesting ride.The final part took me into the wine growing Clare Valley and of course had to stop and sample the wines along the trail.
Finally into Adelaide and what a shock to again be in busy traffic.
My main challenge was to cross the Nullarbor Desert in Australia - on an unsupported bike ride. The route took me from Perth WA to Adalaide SA. This entailed over a 1000 miles of desolate out back. Carrying enough water was my main priority and at times I lugged 10 litres along. It was also a mental challenge as there are miles of nothingness, very few people and at times limited communications.
I left for Australia on 5 September with my new bike a Surly Long Haul Trucker, at least the bike has the right name.
I was raising awareness of Barretts Disease, which I was diagnosed with last year. My message is if you suffer from heartburn or reflux on a regular basis PLEASE get it checked out and don't disguise the symptoms by chewing on the numerous proprietary products bought over the counter products that temporary relieve the symptoms but disguise the cause. Which is exactly what I did. So what is Barrets Disease - well simply put it is acid coming up into the oesophagus and could lead to Oseophagus cancer. To find out more go to http://www.barrettscampaign.org.uk/ or http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barrett's_esophagus gives a good overview .
I would like to thank Chris Robinson from the local group http://www.barrettswessex.org.uk/ for his support.
Ready for the off!
Hi Folks Ok this is my first chance to get internet access and probably the last for another 1600km (1100miles approx.) Have arrived in Coolgardie 587k (sorry for all those who work in miles) had fantastic cycling weather up until yesterday. The Terrain. Followed an old railway track out of Perth over the Darling Hills, slow going as was all shingle and stone but great views. For the last 500k have followed the Great Eastern Hwy through the wheat belt into the gold fields and bush. Have been surprised just how beautiful the bush is with so many different plants and all the wild flowers and bushes bursting out in colour. Unfortunately the only wild life I’ve seen has all been road kill, desperate to see a live kangaroo and emu. Not even the dreaded spiders and snakes. Road Trains. On the whole the drivers are pretty good giving me as much space as possible but at least three times a day I have to veer off the road into the dirt which is pretty hairy as the bike doesn’t like all that gravel and skids sideways. So have to be alert all the time. Interested in what the drivers call themselves or their truck, not sure which. “Metal Stud” “The Perth Wand” “Underlander” The Storm Up until yesterday great weather but about 20k out of Coolgardie I could see the clouds building up behind and suddenly there was a rush like a train going past as this wall of wind hit me from behind and I took off. My computer later showed I reached 52.1kph (37.2mph) without pedalling! This was really scary as trees were coming down and it just turned into a red dust/sand storm. It was all I could do to stay on the bike but was more concerned that other traffic could see me. I flew into town were several houses had their roofs ripped off with the news reporting winds of 100kph. Not something a want to repeat. Took shelter in a caravan park with a cabin, no way was I putting my tent up. The Bike Seems to standing up to all the extra weight I have to carry with at times 10L of water and food for 2 days. Only problem being that the shop who built my wheels sold me the wrong size spare tyre so I’ve had to go into Kalgoorlie – which is a fascinating town – like all along here built over a hundred years ago when the gold rush was at its peak. Me I’m feeling great starting to get in 100k plus days now (haven’t been on a bike for 12 months, great way to train for a trip like this) having to be careful as the sun has been vicious at times. One worrying thing is that I’ve started to think with an Ozzie accent. Struggle to understand some of the people out here. Flies. Wow they really are everywhere out in the bush, I even have to ride with the net over my face. Road Houses These are really interesting places along the route – mostly pretty basic and not a morsel of healthy food to be found. Even watched Benny Hill on the TV at one, very popular with all the truckies. Some have been updated while others haven’t seen a duster for years.
Hi Guys
thanks for all the emails of support even
those questioning my sanity! Arrived in Norseman - really is a bit sad in the middle as looks like 75% of the business' are closed down. Name comes from the miners horse who supposedly kicked up a gold nugget and started a gold rush. Norseman is the start of the Eyre Highway and I'll set of in the morning - can't remember what
day it is, might be Friday. This is what I've come for The Nullarbor, so excited. Rode in yesterday ahead of another gale force winds filling my tent full of sand over night. Everyone says it's unseasonable - yeh I've heard that it seem everywhere I go. Taking today off to get cleaned up and stock up with food.
The first leg is 196Km to the first Road House. Will need to take 2 days worth of water about 10 L - the weight!! Especially as first couple of days are apparently hilly.
Flies are still a pain so have to wear my head net most of the time.
Road Trains
More odd names "Cat Dog" "After Midnight" &" Metal Swan".
Haven't seen a Kangaroo Yet
About the only living things I've see are very colourful birds especially the parrot types. Magpies are a bit of a pain as the swoop down on as you ride passed coming really close to scare you away from the nests.
I want to see a live kangaroo as only seen road kill at the moment. Decided I don't need to fit Roo Bars to the bike after all.
Bush & Outback
I am in awe as the the sheer diversity and beauty of the terrain and can see why people get hooked on it. But then I like desert types any way. I can also see how people might hate it.
thanks for all the emails of support even
those questioning my sanity! Arrived in Norseman - really is a bit sad in the middle as looks like 75% of the business' are closed down. Name comes from the miners horse who supposedly kicked up a gold nugget and started a gold rush. Norseman is the start of the Eyre Highway and I'll set of in the morning - can't remember what
day it is, might be Friday. This is what I've come for The Nullarbor, so excited. Rode in yesterday ahead of another gale force winds filling my tent full of sand over night. Everyone says it's unseasonable - yeh I've heard that it seem everywhere I go. Taking today off to get cleaned up and stock up with food.
The first leg is 196Km to the first Road House. Will need to take 2 days worth of water about 10 L - the weight!! Especially as first couple of days are apparently hilly.
Flies are still a pain so have to wear my head net most of the time.
Road Trains
More odd names "Cat Dog" "After Midnight" &" Metal Swan".
Haven't seen a Kangaroo Yet
About the only living things I've see are very colourful birds especially the parrot types. Magpies are a bit of a pain as the swoop down on as you ride passed coming really close to scare you away from the nests.
I want to see a live kangaroo as only seen road kill at the moment. Decided I don't need to fit Roo Bars to the bike after all.
Bush & Outback
I am in awe as the the sheer diversity and beauty of the terrain and can see why people get hooked on it. But then I like desert types any way. I can also see how people might hate it.
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Crossing the salt flats to Norseman
IN CEDUNA AND ACROSS THE NULLARBOR 10 October 2011
Well this is seen as the end of the Nullarbor Crossing, 1980 km from Perth. Bit of a shock to be finally in a town and all the noise associated with that. I have really enjoyed the solitude of the outback and can fully understand how people can get hooked on being out in the bush. However, wont miss the flies although don't expect that I've seen the end of them. There is a kind of on going community of people crossing the Mullarbor and although you might not meet them again you get word of them from other travellers. Unfortunately can't get into my emails ??? so will update when or if I can. About 800 km to get to Adalaide so still a little bit more cycling to do.
Well this is seen as the end of the Nullarbor Crossing, 1980 km from Perth. Bit of a shock to be finally in a town and all the noise associated with that. I have really enjoyed the solitude of the outback and can fully understand how people can get hooked on being out in the bush. However, wont miss the flies although don't expect that I've seen the end of them. There is a kind of on going community of people crossing the Mullarbor and although you might not meet them again you get word of them from other travellers. Unfortunately can't get into my emails ??? so will update when or if I can. About 800 km to get to Adalaide so still a little bit more cycling to do.
